Four masters · one bake day

The Baker’s Round Table

Four master bakers’ classic loaves, side by side on one bake day. Tap a baker for the full plan.

If all four at , when would the bread come out?

Same day

Hands onWaiting & risingIn the ovenIn the fridgeNight

Drag along the hours to see what everyone’s doing

Hamelman — Mix without salt, rest: 8 AM, 20–30 min

Go deeper when you want to

Where they part ways

Seven real forks in the road

Only differences you can see in the recipes themselves — not invented feuds. Each one makes sense inside its own recipe.

  1. 1

    Bake

    Score the loaf, or bake it seam-up?

    Score it(Robertson)(Hamelman)(Reinhart)Seam-up, no blade(Forkish)

    Score it RoRobertson Turns the loaf out seam-down and scores the top a few times.HaHamelman Slashes the top of Vermont Sourdough before baking.ReReinhart Scores the baguettes before loading.
    Seam-up, no blade FoForkish Bakes Saturday White seam-side up; the method has no scoring step.

    A score chooses where the loaf opens. Seam-up lets the dough open along its own folds — no blade, and a more rugged, less predictable top.

    Keep togetherForkish proofs seam-side down, so the seam faces up in the pot; flip that and you lose the natural opening.

    Sources: T3 · H2 · P1 · F1

  2. 2

    Bulk

    How far should bulk fermentation go?

    Up 20–30%(Robertson)Doubled(Reinhart)Tripled(Forkish)By the clock(Hamelman)

    Up 20–30% RoRobertson Country Bread: billowy and up 20–30% after about 3 hours at 75–80°F.
    Doubled ReReinhart French Bread: doubled in about 2 hours; degas and let it double again if it gets there early.
    Tripled FoForkish Saturday White: tripled, about 5 hours after mixing.
    By the clock HaHamelman Vermont Sourdough gives a timed bulk of about 2½ hours with folds, not a volume target.

    These aren’t four opinions about the same dough: a levain dough with a long warm proof, a yeasted dough with a short proof, and a dough made with a big dose of old dough behave differently.

    Keep togetherKeep each endpoint with its own recipe — its leavening, temperature and proof. Tripling a Tartine dough, or stopping Saturday White at +25%, changes the whole bread.

    Sources: T3 · P1 · F1 · H2

  3. 3

    Mix

    Build strength by kneading, or by folding?

    Knead to windowpane(Reinhart)Turns in the bowl(Robertson)Pincer mix + two folds(Forkish)Moderate mix + folds(Hamelman)

    Knead to windowpane ReReinhart About 10 minutes by hand (6 by machine) until the dough stretches thin without tearing.
    Turns in the bowl RoRobertson No kneading: folds in the bowl every half hour during bulk.
    Pincer mix + two folds FoForkish About 5 minutes of pincer cuts and folds, then two folds early in bulk.
    Moderate mix + folds HaHamelman A short machine mix, then a fold (or two) — in Bread he favors “moderate gluten development in the bowl.”

    Strength has to come from somewhere: work up front, or time plus folds. These four recipes sit at different points on that line.

    Keep togetherLess mixing means the folds and the bulk time are doing the work — don’t skip them.

    Sources: P1 · T3 · F1 · H1

  4. 4

    Mix

    Is the leaven in the first rest, or added after?

    Leaven in the rest(Robertson)(Hamelman)Flour and water only(Forkish)No rest(Reinhart)

    Leaven in the rest RoRobertson Leaven, water and flour rest together 25–40 minutes before the salt.HaHamelman Everything but the salt — levain included — rests 20–30 minutes.
    Flour and water only FoForkish Flour and water rest 20–30 minutes; salt and yeast go in after.
    No rest ReReinhart French Bread goes straight from mixing to kneading.

    A rest before salt lets the flour hydrate and makes mixing easier. Including the leaven starts fermentation during that rest too.

    Keep togetherHamelman’s Bread says a liquid levain may go into the autolyse when the dough needs its water — so “flour and water only” isn’t a hard rule for him.

    Sources: T3 · H2 · F1 · P1

  5. 5

    Mix

    Salt at the start, or after the rest?

    At the start(Reinhart)After the rest(Forkish)(Robertson)(Hamelman)

    At the start ReReinhart Salt goes in with everything else before kneading.
    After the rest FoForkish Salt and yeast are sprinkled over after the autolyse.RoRobertson Salt goes in with a little extra water after the rest.HaHamelman Salt is added after the rest, then a short mix.

    In these four recipes, salt timing follows the rest: where there’s a rest before mixing, the salt waits for it.

    Keep togetherAdding salt late means working it in thoroughly — the doughs above each describe how.

    Sources: P1 · F1 · T3 · H2

  6. 6

    Bake

    Trap steam in a pot, or make it in the oven?

    Covered pot(Robertson)(Forkish)(Hamelman)Stone + steam pan(Reinhart)

    Covered pot RoRobertson A lidded pot preheated to 500°F; lid off after 20 minutes.FoForkish A Dutch oven preheated to 475°F; lid off after 30 minutes.HaHamelman Covered bakers preheated 45+ minutes; lid off after 30 minutes.
    Stone + steam pan ReReinhart A baking stone, a pan of hot water, then three sprays of the oven walls 30 seconds apart.

    A covered pot holds the loaf’s own moisture; a hearth setup generates steam separately. Baguettes don’t fit in a pot.

    Keep togetherHamelman offers both setups in other recipes — this is equipment, not doctrine.

    Sources: T3 · F1 · H2 · P1

  7. 7

    Cool

    How long before you slice?

    Until completely cool(Hamelman)At least 40 minutes(Reinhart)At least 20 minutes(Forkish)At least 15 minutes(Robertson)

    Until completely cool HaHamelman Bread recommends letting loaves cool completely.
    At least 40 minutes ReReinhart French Bread cools at least 40 minutes.
    At least 20 minutes FoForkish Saturday White rests at least 20 minutes.
    At least 15 minutes RoRobertson Tartine’s web version allows slicing after 15 minutes.

    These are minimums, not a quarrel: an early slice is allowed; a fully cooled one is what Hamelman prefers for eating quality.

    Keep togetherSlice a big boule hot and the crumb can seem gummy — see the Crumb Lens before blaming the bake.

    Sources: H1 · P1 · F1 · T3

The ledger

Every question, every baker — and what we couldn’t find

15 topics × 4 bakers. 55 positions checked in the source, 2 from third-party accounts, and 3 gaps left as gaps rather than guessed.

How each baker handles each topic, with the status of the evidence
TopicHamelmanBreadRobertsonTartine BreadForkishFlour Water Salt YeastReinhartThe Bread Baker’s Apprentice
Levain ripenessPre-fermentChecked in the source:Vermont’s levain should be bubbly and expanded after 12–16 hours. No float test given.Source: King Arthur: Vermont Sourdough, recipe by Jeffrey Hamelman,H2Checked in the source:Prefers a young, sweet-smelling leaven that floats; allows a riper one for a sourer loaf.Source: Tartine Whole-Wheat Bread, permissioned reprint (The Splendid Table),T2Checked in the source:The permissioned Pain au Bacon builds its levain about 10 hours, until bubbly.Source: Forkish: Pain au Bacon, permissioned condensed version (Bewitching Kitchen),F2From a third-party account:A third-party account ferments his firm starter until at least doubled, then refrigerates it.Source: Bread Experience: basic sourdough from BBA, third-party account,P4
The first restMixChecked in the source:Usually flour and water, 20–60 minutes; a liquid levain or poolish may be included when the dough needs its water.Source: Hamelman, Bread (3rd ed.), ch. 1, publisher excerpt,H1Checked in the source:Flour, water and leaven rest together before the salt.Source: Tartine Country Bread, permissioned reprint (Martha Stewart),T1Checked in the source:Flour and water only, 20–30 minutes; salt and leaven or yeast follow.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:French Bread goes straight from mixing to kneading — no rest.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
MixingMixChecked in the source:Generally moderate development in the mixer, plus folds, rather than intensive mixing.Source: Hamelman, Bread (3rd ed.), ch. 1, publisher excerpt,H1Checked in the source:Develops the dough with turns in the bowl instead of kneading.Source: Tartine Whole-Wheat Bread, permissioned reprint (The Splendid Table),T2Checked in the source:Pincer cuts and folds, about 5 minutes by hand.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:About 10 minutes by hand or 6 by machine, to windowpane.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
Dough temperatureMixChecked in the source:75–78°F as the general range for wheat-dough fermentation (not a fixed water temperature).Source: Hamelman, Bread (3rd ed.), ch. 1, publisher excerpt,H1Checked in the source:Book version: 80°F water, dough kept around 78–82°F in bulk. The bakery’s web version says a 75–80°F spot.Source: Tartine Country Bread, permissioned reprint (Martha Stewart),T1Checked in the source:90–95°F water; 77–78°F at the end of mixing.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:90–100°F water; 77–81°F after kneading.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
SaltMixChecked in the source:Vermont: 18 g, about 2% of the listed flour, added after the rest.Source: King Arthur: Vermont Sourdough, recipe by Jeffrey Hamelman,H2Checked in the source:20 g, 2% of the newly added flour, added after resting.Source: Tartine Whole-Wheat Bread, permissioned reprint (The Splendid Table),T2Checked in the source:Saturday White: 2.1%, added with the yeast after the autolyse.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:French Bread: 1.9% of the new flour, mixed in at the start.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
Bulk endpointBulkNot found:No volume target stated — Vermont gives a timed bulk of about 2½ hours.Source: King Arthur: Vermont Sourdough, recipe by Jeffrey Hamelman,H2Checked in the source:Aerated and softer, up 20–30% in volume.Source: Tartine Country Bread, permissioned reprint (Martha Stewart),T1Checked in the source:Tripled, about 5 hours after mixing.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:Doubled; if early, degas gently and let it double again.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
FoldsBulkChecked in the source:Vermont: one fold after an hour; a second only if the dough lacks strength.Source: King Arthur: Vermont Sourdough, recipe by Jeffrey Hamelman,H2Checked in the source:Turns every half hour through the first two hours or so, gentler later.Source: Tartine Whole-Wheat Bread, permissioned reprint (The Splendid Table),T2Checked in the source:Two folds: about 10 minutes after mixing, then within the next hour.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:Ciabatta: a stretch and fold on the counter, another 30 minutes later.Source: Reinhart: Ciabatta, poolish version (Epicurious),P2
Final proofProofChecked in the source:Vermont: 1½–2 hours at 68–78°F, or covered overnight in the fridge.Source: King Arthur: Vermont Sourdough, recipe by Jeffrey Hamelman,H2Checked in the source:A warm final rise, or up to 12 hours in the refrigerator.Source: Tartine Whole-Wheat Bread, permissioned reprint (The Splendid Table),T2Checked in the source:About 1¼ hours at 70°F; a second loaf may go in the fridge overnight.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:French Bread: 45–75 minutes, to about 1½ times the size.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
ScoringBakeChecked in the source:Vermont is slashed across the top.Source: King Arthur: Vermont Sourdough, recipe by Jeffrey Hamelman,H2Checked in the source:Turned out of a seam-up proof and scored.Source: Tartine Country Bread, permissioned reprint (Martha Stewart),T1Checked in the source:Saturday White bakes seam-up with no scoring step.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:Baguettes are scored before loading.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
Vessel and steamBakeChecked in the source:Golden Durum offers a stone with a steam pan, or a Dutch oven without one.Source: King Arthur: Jeffrey’s Golden Durum Sesame Bread,H3Checked in the source:A sealed Dutch oven or combo cooker holds the loaf’s moisture.Source: Tartine Whole-Wheat Bread, permissioned reprint (The Splendid Table),T2Checked in the source:A preheated Dutch oven, covered then uncovered.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:A stone or sheet pan with separately made steam.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
Crust colorBakeChecked in the source:Vermont: golden brown.Source: King Arthur: Vermont Sourdough, recipe by Jeffrey Hamelman,H2Checked in the source:Book version: deep golden brown (the web version says rich golden brown).Source: Tartine Country Bread, permissioned reprint (Martha Stewart),T1Checked in the source:At least “medium dark brown.”Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:Rich golden brown.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
Doneness and coolingCoolChecked in the source:Cool completely (Bread, ch. 1); Vermont also gives about 210°F inside.Source: Hamelman, Bread (3rd ed.), ch. 1, publisher excerpt,H1Also: King Arthur: Vermont Sourdough, recipe by Jeffrey Hamelman,H2Checked in the source:The bakery’s web version allows slicing after 15 minutes; no internal temperature.Source: Tartine Bakery: Country Bread (the bakery’s own web version),T3Checked in the source:Rest at least 20 minutes before slicing.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:At least 205°F inside; cool at least 40 minutes.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
Yeast in a levain doughLeaveningChecked in the source:Bread explicitly recognizes combining sourdough with commercial yeast.Source: Hamelman, Bread (3rd ed.), ch. 1, publisher excerpt,H1Not found:Not stated. His country and whole-wheat formulas use no commercial yeast — which isn’t the same as opposing it.From a third-party account:A third-party account of his Pain de Campagne uses levain plus 2 g of yeast.Source: Pain de Campagne after Forkish, third-party account,F3Not found:Not stated in these recipes. Yeast plus pâte fermentée isn’t a sourdough hybrid.
Pre-fermentPre-fermentChecked in the source:Vermont builds a liquid levain: 135 g flour, 170 g water, 14 g starter.Source: King Arthur: Vermont Sourdough, recipe by Jeffrey Hamelman,H2Checked in the source:200 g leaven to 1,000 g of new flour.Source: Tartine Country Bread, permissioned reprint (Martha Stewart),T1Checked in the source:Pain au Bacon: 108 g levain to 440 g of new flour.Source: Forkish: Pain au Bacon, permissioned condensed version (Bewitching Kitchen),F2Checked in the source:Pâte fermentée at 160% of the new flour.Source: Reinhart: French Bread, from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice (Epicurious),P1
Whole grainMixChecked in the source:Supports an autolyse for whole wheat so the bran can absorb water first.Source: Hamelman, Bread (3rd ed.), ch. 1, publisher excerpt,H1Checked in the source:Whole-wheat version: 80% water, a 40–60 minute rest and cooler water.Source: Tartine Whole-Wheat Bread, permissioned reprint (The Splendid Table),T2Checked in the source:Allows swapping 10% of Saturday White’s flour for whole wheat.Source: Forkish: The Saturday White Bread, permissioned reprint (Epicurious),F1Checked in the source:Whole-Wheat Bread uses an overnight soaker and a refrigerated poolish.Source: Reinhart: Whole-Wheat Bread (Epicurious),P3

✓ Checked in the source ≈ From a third-party account — Not found — absence isn’t opposition

And Emily Buehler? Bread Science explains why dough behaves the way it does rather than laying out one house method, and the publisher’s sample we could check confirms only a few specifics:

  • Salt: Her basic loaf uses 2% salt; when it’s added isn’t shown in the sample. B1
  • Vessel and steam: A preheated pizza stone, with an optional second stone above; steam isn’t covered in the sample. B1
  • Pre-ferment: Both poolish and a stiffer sponge work; she found no obvious difference. B1

Everything else stays blank rather than guessed.

All sources (14), checked September 30, 2026

Recipe steps are paraphrased from each source. A recipe shows what its author does in that recipe — not a rule for every bread he makes. Where the Tartine book and the bakery’s own web version differ, the timeline follows the web version and the ledger says which it quotes. Follow the original recipe when you bake.

Why the masters seem to disagree

Read these books back to back and they seem to contradict each other — score or don’t, knead or fold, salt early or late. Mostly they aren’t arguing: each instruction belongs to a whole recipe, with its own leavening, temperature and timing. That’s why the Round Table compares whole methods on one clock rather than isolated rules.

Which recipe should you start with?

If you want bread today with commercial yeast and a Dutch oven, Forkish’s Saturday White fits a single day. If you keep a starter and like a long, warm proof, Tartine’s Country Bread is the classic. Hamelman’s Vermont Sourdough is a shorter levain schedule built around a mixer and a timed bulk, and Reinhart’s French Bread shows what a large dose of old dough does for a same-day baguette. Bake one as written before you change anything, and change one thing at a time.

Once you’ve picked a recipe, scale it or build its levain in the Baker’s Bench, time the starter with the Starter Clock, and if something goes wrong, check the Crumb Lens.